Panthenol

Panthenol is the alcohol analogue of pantothenic acid, the water-soluble vitamin B5, and human cells convert it into the vitamin. In cosmetics it works as a hair-conditioning agent, a skin-conditioning humectant and a solvent, and thousands of formulations contain it.

Forms and production

Panthenol is a white, crystalline powder, a mixture of the D- and L-forms. D-panthenol can also be a colourless to slightly yellow, clear, viscous liquid. It is made synthetically by a condensation reaction of D-pantolactone with aminopropanol. Pantothenic acid itself occurs naturally in all animal and plant tissues.

In the body and the skin

In the body, D-panthenol is oxidised to pantothenic acid, the only biologically active form of this B vitamin. D-panthenol can also be absorbed into the skin and converted to pantothenic acid.

Use in cosmetics

In 2017, panthenol was reported to the US Food and Drug Administration as used in 5,766 cosmetic formulations. The highest reported concentrations were 5.3% in body and hand products and 5% in skin cleansers and hair conditioners. The EU cosmetic ingredient database (CosIng) lists its functions as antistatic, hair conditioning and skin conditioning.

Safety

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) expert panel reported in 2018 that panthenol is safe in cosmetics at the concentrations then in use. The panel noted minimal potential for irritation and sensitisation: in skin tests on people, panthenol was non- to mildly irritating and did not cause sensitisation. The amounts absorbed from cosmetics are below typical intake from food.

Products containing it

• Aftershave Gel, Eucalyptus Nun's Valley Madeira (I 139)
• Body Cream With Lavender And Herbs (I 879)
• Body Cream, Argana (I 337)
• Energizing Face Cream, Eucalyptus Nun's Valley Madeira (I 140)
• Eye Contour Cream, Secret Of Serenity (I 406)
• Face Cream For Night Use, Secret Of Serenity (I 401)
• Hand And Nail Cream, Argana (I 340)
• Shampoo With Tea Tree Oil (I 777)
• Shower Foam, Vivaderm (I 330)
• Skin Cream With Dead Sea Salt, Viva Activ (I 877)
• Skin Cream With Jojoba Oil (I 780)